How to Make a Baby Doll Dress

My favorite throw-on-and-go dress is a very simple baby doll dress that basically goes with anything. As I was studying it one day I realized, “This really IS a simple dress. I’d love to try my hand at making my own version.” So, I did.

The method I used is a great way to create your own pattern for a garment from an existing item you may have that you know fits you well. You can tweak this basic guide to create more customized looks that you feel good in. Follow along as I share how to make your own baby doll dress (and pattern).

Supplies:
-pattern paper
-measuring tape
-2 1/2 yards of lightweight to medium weight cotton fabric and 1/2 yard for lining
-pins
-pinking shears
-iron and board
-chopstick or pencil
-self-healing mat and rotary cutter
-sewing machine

Step One: Drafting a pattern is typically the first step in sewing your own clothes if you don’t already have a commercial pattern to use. I love doing both for different reasons. Find a top or dress that has a loose fit and silhouette that you like. Remember, it needs to be wide enough to fit over your head and bust since we aren’t inserting a zipper on this one. Fold your top/dress in half and trace. We are only drafting a pattern for the bodice right now, so you can determine your desired length. Once you have your bodice traced, add 1/2″ all the way around for seam allowance. Now, let’s do some cutting!

*Remember, your front and back necklines can be the same or different depending on your preference. If you’d like the back of your dress to be closer to the neck than the front, draft two patterns—one for the front piece and one for the back.

Step Two: This particular baby doll dress has a lined bodice, so we will be cutting a front piece and a back piece on the fold from our main fabric. Then we will cut additional front and back pieces on the fold for our lining.

Step Three: Once you have all four pieces cut, place the right sides of your front piece and your front lining piece together. Pin all the way around the sides, neckline, and underarms. You don’t need to sew the bottom. Let’s take this to the machine.

Step Four: Once you have sewn the sides, neckline, and underarms, flip the front piece right-side out and use your chopstick to push the corners out. The photo above shows the difference in pushing the corners out (left shoulder) vs. not pushing them (right shoulder).

Step Five: Press your front piece flat, and repeat steps 3-5 for the back piece.

Step Six: Once you have both front and back pieces flipped and pressed, place them together with the right sides facing each other and pin the shoulders and sides together. Take it to the sewing machine and stitch it up.

Step Seven: Flip your bodice right-side out and press with the iron. Top stitch around the neckline and armholes.

Step Eight: Now that we’ve finished up the bodice, let’s get started on the skirt. I wanted a pretty full skirt on my dress, so I cut a 72″ (2 yards) x 19″ piece of fabric for it. You can easily change this up to be longer, more full, less full or shorter, depending on your preferences and height.

Step Nine: Once you have your skirt piece cut, sew two rows of basting stitches along the top edge of the fabric. Slowly and carefully cinch the skirt, spreading the pleats as evenly as possible. I like to run two stitches on pieces this large just in case one of the basting stitches snaps. That way you don’t have to start all over.

Step Ten: Measure the width of the bottom of your bodice and make sure your skirt size matches. Add or remove pleats depending on your size adjustment. Once you have the correct width, tie off your basting stitches and sew up the side seam on your skirt. Press your seams open.

*The skirt of this dress is not lined, but feel free to add a lining if you want, just like we did for the top of the dress.

Step Eleven: Now that we have a full bodice piece and skirt piece, it’s time to attach them. Begin by pinning the side seam of the skirt to the side seam of the bodice (right sides facing each other). Repeat on the other side. Now, finish pinning around the front and back. Pinning may go a little smoother if you stuff the bodice down inside the skirt and pin from there. Just make sure your right sides are together.

Step Twelve: Take this to your sewing machine and slowly stitch all the way around, making sure your bodice doesn’t bunch. Taking your time will really pay off on this step. Try to keep your stitching right under your bottom basting stitch. Once your skirt is attached, use a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch along the edge to finish it and trim the excess.

Step Thirteen: Okay! Now just hem the bottom, and you’re all done! Remember to store your pattern drafts so you can use them again or tweak them for other garments later. You can use a pants/skirt hanger to hang all the cut pieces of paper up in your closet or sewing room to archive them for the future (without folding).

I love this silhouette as a spring/summer dress, but it also wears well in the cooler months with a cardigan or undershirt. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to make this dress in all of my favorite fabrics! – Katie

Credits // Author: Katie Shelton. Photography: Janae Hardy and Katie Shelton.
  • I would like to add short sleeves to this dress. Do you have any ideas or details of how to add short sleeves to this dress. Thank you for dress instructions. I love this dress.

  • Made this! And it was super easy with the tutorial. Thank you ??

  • Wow!! Wonderful tips to make this dress. I really love this cute dress.

    You helped me get motivated to make a beautiful dress by myself.

    Thank you !

  • Such a sweet and simple style. Wondering which dress you based the pattern on(the grey one, what brand)?

  • Nice dress. I want to learn sewing. I am completely new. Can you suggest me a beginner sewing machine under 500$?

    Thank you

  • I use to wear baby doll nighties. This style in a dress is flattering. I appreciate you sharing this hub, even though I am petite and older. Thanks for the tips where to find them. I guess I like the feminine look as I am a bit old-fashioned. It is interesting to see how fashion makes its full circle, isn’t it? 🙂

  • Thanks for finally writing about >How to Make a Baby Doll Dress –
    A Beautiful Mess <Loved it!

  • I LOVE this tutorial! Who doesn’t love a little babydoll? I love how you broke down every step. I can totally do this!

  • This dress is so good! You did an awesome job!

    @MamaKelly
    https://doyousew.com

  • Wonderful dress, but isn’t it hard to put on the dress? It doesn’t have a zippered or anything like that, and since I’m very curvy I’m afraid that I wont be able to get it over my hips. Is this a valid fear or is it enough to use stretching fabric?

  • Is there anything (ABM or otherwise) that you could link us to that would address adding short sleeves to a dress like this?

  • Wow!! Wonderful tips to make this dress. I really love this cute dress.

  • I’m not a big fan of the pattern, but the cut is super cute!
    https://www.makeandmess.com/

  • This is so cute! Will def. have to try this. My poor sewing machine has not gotten much attention the past year, and this is the perfect project to bring it out for!

  • I love this! It makes me want to get back into sewing! I like that it’s not overly complicated – right up my alley 🙂 . KEEP THE CUTE SEWING PROJECTS COMING!

  • this is so cute! I love it! Puts me in that crafty mood, even though I can’t saw. But I wish I could! 😀

  • This dress is so pretty! You did an awesome job!

    Paige
    http://thehappyflammily.com

  • I love vintage and patterned fit and flare and babydoll dresses but sometimes it’s hard to find just the right length or a piece that fits my chest correctly. This looks like a perfect challenge once I get a better hang of my sewing machine.

  • Katie you are the cutest! I’m always intimidated by making clothing but I NEED to try this <3

  • Sharing this DIY with my Mum! She recently got into making dresses and has made a LOT, but never attempted a babydoll one. This would be a great challenge for her! 🙂

    Charmaine Ng | Architecture & Lifestyle Blog
    http://charmainenyw.com

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